The first thing that needs to be said we make razors. And we convinced they are good. But these words would be nothing without positive comments of our customers who bought a razor with a mark “Master Frans” (the head of our Free Masters Club “Art•RAZOR”). Generally, I would like to share my thoughts about razors, paying a tribute to masters and enterprises of the past. I will start with a steel. However, what is the difference between a good razor and a bad one? It is clear, we should compare the similar razors only, which have the same parameters.
Everybody knows that the best steel for razors is a carbon one. Although, it is the same if somebody asks you: “what are your favorite sweets?” – and your respond will be: “Chocolate ones”. It is well known to past Soviet Union masters a mass high-carbon steel U8 (У8), U10 (У10), U12 (У12) (Soviet and post-Soviet standard labeling carbon and tool steels). This steel is instrumental. Basically, these brands fulfill the necessary and sufficient criteria for the shave production. However, there are some nuances with a heat treatment, depends on the master’s qualification (I mean a handcraft). Also there are some which are alloyed with chromium ShKh4 (ШХ4), ShKh15 (ШХ15), ShKh15SG (ШХ15СГ) (Ukraine, Russia)... But this variant seems to me is not so common.
And if we look deep into the history, the first thing that comes on mind is a Sheffield steel. This was the technological achievement of Benjamin Gentsman relating to the middle of the XVIII century, it was not the first nor the last in the series of remarkable metallurgical development of the past. But it is a “Sheffield ”steel, obtained originally by the crucible melting method, has become a synonymous with an unconditional quality and has acquired a lot of myths and rumors. One thing is clear that steel was produced at first time not so much, and then in large quantities in Sheffield, and it was of a very good quality. As far as it could be good at a time when not only did not have a tenth of modern instrumentation, but when a filling flux produced approximately.
The razor company Wade & Butcher. And framebacks, and wedges, and hollow works very well. There is a soft shaving, quick sharpening and stroping. Master Frans has seen about three hundred different models of this brand. Neither one (!) was not sent to the trash. All of these items were recovered, sharpened and shaved perfectly.
Much the same with the traditional “vintage” steel, which was on the Swedish market thanking to metallurgists of the previous years.
The razor Erik Anton Berg. Erik has come a long and thorny path from the cramped kitchen, where they together did with his wife a razor before the famous factory. Razors are good both at work and in the sharpening and stroping. Hardness is the middle. Sharpening is stable, shaving is nice and comfortable.
But with the Japanese steel everything is even more interesting: a lot of romance, tells us about the slow processes in special pits, the image of the blacksmith in the wind. And the lightest silk handkerchief which is cut by a careless gesture in flight by a very beautiful sword. However, in practice, the situation is far more prosaic: excellent Japanese masters have made and continue to make admirable kamissori and razors of European standard of English, Swedish and German steel. Well, at least, this is a mass trend of a “golden age”, these razors will last till the end if the XX century.
"The Japanese", Sheön Burg. Frameback. Swedish steel. It takes very long to sharpen it, but keeps a sharpness very long. It shaves cleanly once against a growth of hair.
But every steel is only more or less successful raw material without a thermal treatment. Sometimes, there is at the Russian – speaking and at all other specialized forums announced the joyful cry of a master: “I have learned how to do a thermal treatment!”. And this recognition can understand only a handcraft master. In a few words it means: an absence of cracks and local difference of hardness, excellent cutting edge, ease of stropping and durability of sharpening. The masters of the Free Masters Club “Art•RAZOR” have learned how to make such ones. Along with a domestic steel we use excellent and modern Swedish steel “Uddeholm Arne”. This is a medium carbon steel (carbon content 0,8%). It is quite resistant to corrosion (as much as it is possible to carbon) and, thanks to the exceptional purity and control of production, gives an excellent and stable cutting edge. Also it sharps easy that is very important for amateur enthusiasts.
This is our razor, from the "Art•RAZOR". Model: "HUNTER". The blade is 6/8, 1/4 hollow. Steel: Uddeholm Arne. t is our own design despite the seeming simplicity. Working characteristic is likely to it's vintage sisters :). You are able to judge aesthetic side. Also I have posted here not the most "sophisticated" model.
It is impossible to grasp the immensity because it is not a scientific article :). There has been left “overboard” many legendary stories – and a mysterious “silver steel”, and a sensational in its time “magnetic steel”, and other kind of exotic like the stainless Elmax Uddeholm. Honestly saying, there is a huge field for theoretical and practical research.



No comments:
Post a Comment