In my previous publications, I repeatedly raised the question of the aesthetics of razors produced by "Art•RAZOR", and in this connection emphasized that we have a large set of solutions for different user preferences, including the blade form factor. I think it's time to clarify what lies behind our rich assortment, and not only in the aesthetic sense. I'm not tired of repeating that a razor is a hygiene tool, and therefore it has rather high technological requirements. And the correct geometry (more precisely, the stereometry) of the razor is the key to comfortable shaving and reliable insurance against injuries.
First of all, a good razor has the right angle of sharpening the cutting edge (CE). At the same time, whether we are talking about editing on a belt or the process of sharpening on a stone, it remains unchanged that the razor is placed on the surface so that both the CE and the protruding part of the butt are in contact with this surface. From elementary geometric considerations, it is clear that the ratio of the width of the web and the thickness of the shoe determines the angle of sharpening. Consequently, the proportions of the razor can not be arbitrary. Empirically, it has long been established that the ratio of the thickness of the butt to the width of the blade must lie in the range 1:4 - 1:3, and closer to the first value. I will draw your attention to the fact that these parameters are valid for both the straight cutting edge and for the razor with a "smile". And then the second important requirement becomes clear: the working segment of the CE must be parallel to the line of the obtus, including with an arcuate shape. Otherwise, the angle of sharpening will vary along the CE, which is completely unacceptable. These requirements are strictly observed when manufacturing products from "Art•RAZOR".
A razor with a rather distinct smile (model "CENTURIO") and a razor with straight line CE (model "MAESTRO"), development and production of products: "Art•RAZOR". Dotted lines show the discussed nuance of geometry.
In those cases where the line of the cutting edge is nonparallel to the line of the shoe (it is at variance with it in the direction of the nose), geometric compensation is the thickening of the butt in the indicated direction. Naturally, such cases require special care in the design and increased attention in the manufacture of the product. In other words, the cross sections of the working part of the blade should always be similar (in geometric sense) figures.
The razor "Murat" produced by "Art•RAZOR". Here, the nonparallelism of the projecting line of the butt and the posterior part of the CE (in the direction of the heel) is compensated by the thickening of the butt to the nose.
Thus, the wider the blade, the thicker the back. This "law" does not depend on whether we are dealing with a wedge or a complete hallow. Just a wedge will have a lot of weight. This is what causes some razors to give preference to wedges; In skilled hands such a razor slides on a shaved surface almost under its own weight, without applying effort to the movement "on the hair." But, as they say, there is no perfection in the world: a wedge is potentially capable of causing a much more perceptible injury than a lighter blade of the type of hollow or semihollow. Proceeding from this, in our assortment there are variants of not only narrow and medium, but also wide blades according to the factor of the sample selection. I note that when handmade production, our masters do not need to save metal, which falls on each individual razor. We produce blades made of high-quality carbon
steel sheet. Like ancient sculptors, we simply cut off all the leashes :). Therefore, we are free from some technical tricks and tricks, which dictate conveyor production. In particular, the body of razors "Art•RAZOR", despite the necessary reduction in thickness in the direction of the tail, does not go to too small values (up to 1 mm or less), as is often observed even in the case of very good razors of batch production. This provides our blades with the so-called. Fullness and convenience of setting the finger on the tail with a standard shaving grip. For comparison: on average, the weight of the blade of mass production lies in the range of 30-50 grams (except for quite massive wrought wedges, which are much heavier), and in our version - in the range of 40-70 gr. From the point of view of many users of razors, this is an important advantage.
The "Le Chef" razor (designed by "CLEMENCEAU") is an example of a full-fledged razor of the luxury category from "Art • RAZOR", a novelty of 2017.
Paying tribute to the masters and technologists of the past, I will allow myself a few critical remarks. It is, first of all, the razors made in the 19th century by the forge method. During the manufacture of the blade, the smith made a hole under the axial pin with a shock method, using a "square" section punch. With this method, we initially deal with the play of the cylindrical axis in a hole of irregular shape. But it's not so bad; All the same when collecting razors, the inner washers tighten the blade so that the blade sits well and walks well, without falling into the handle. But the axis of such a hole made on the eye is rarely perpendicular to the plane of the blade. And this is fraught with a skew in the final assembly, for the elimination of which you have to take certain measures. In fact, some of those serial razors, where the axial hole is drilled, are also not free from this nonstandard. Razors
made by "Art•RAZOR" are not guaranteed to have this small, but annoying error.
I can not ignore one issue that concerns, more likely, the history of shaving production, but is important for understanding what a "modern razor" is. Chronologically, the blades evolved from a full wedge in the direction of the hallow and extra-hallow. At first, almost all razors were a wedge in cross section. This is due to the fact that the composition of steel at the end of the XVIII and until the middle of the XIX century was significantly different from modern carbon steels. The blade, made of "archaic" material, held a thin edge worse, and the sharp triangle of the wedge-shaped section successfully avoided this problem. In addition, the standards and accuracy of metalwork in the specified period did not allow the production of razors with a deep sample on the flow. In the
end, the blades with a sample of the hallow have substantially pressed the wedges and occupied the leading position in the market; Because the hallway is much more durable. If, in an inept sharpening, the CE is "filled up", in the case of a wedge it is necessary to restore the tool by completely changing the geometry, grasping the web evenly throughout the plane, down to the thinning of the shoe. Meanwhile, similar defects even on semihollow are eliminated much easier, without significant damage to the body of the razor as a whole ... In general, speaking of the razor as a finished product in a complete assembly, it is impossible not to mention another nuance. For all the simplicity and obviousness of the criterion, which is discussed below, they are often neglected not only by beginners of manual production, but also by very advanced masters. The fact is that when the razor is fully opened, in a position where the handle becomes an extension of the tang line, ideally nothing should stick out and stick out beyond the contour line of the handle. Otherwise, the risk of damage to the blade when sharpening or the belt for straightening increases with awkward movement, when the blade is turned to change the direction. And too prominent decorative excesses on the shoe (for example, in the form of long spikes) do not add the convenience of these manipulations. We in our design always try to take into account this criterion of comfortable maintenance of the product. Aesthetics can not be more important than ergonomics :).
On this essay on the form of razor blades could be completed, but there is one more property that sometimes causes concern among some users who adhere to the principles of perfectionism. I am referring to laser engraving with the help of which markings are obligatory for the razors "Art•RAZOR" from the point of view of our internal standard, as well as decor elements. I can assure readers that the relief of such engraving does not lead to deterioration of the properties of the product. First, laser engraving does not cause any damage to the thermal treatment of the blade: despite very high temperatures directly at the point of beam movement, the zone subjected to heating is localized in a tiny area and a small impact time, and the heat sink in a massive blade monolith excludes the risk of tempering, the More in the CE area. Secondly, after drawing the drawings with a laser, just before the assembly, the blade passes the final finish, and therefore the edges of the image contours do not injure the belt for straightening. I personally check each product and I can assure that none of our razors scratch the strap.
Summarizing all of the above, I want to draw the readers' attention to the fact that the modern razor of manual production is, as a rule, a step forward in the sense of careful execution and design. Well, at least, such razors certainly do not have to give in to decent samples of past years, regardless of the way they are made. I'm sure that the razors "Art•RAZOR" please the users with their excellent properties and comfortable shaving, which I wish all the adherents of traditional shaving.
made by "Art•RAZOR" are not guaranteed to have this small, but annoying error.
There is a photo of the razor blade of the EMPIRE model produced by "Art•RAZOR". Blades of antique razors with this feature of the axial hole execution are shown below.
I can not ignore one issue that concerns, more likely, the history of shaving production, but is important for understanding what a "modern razor" is. Chronologically, the blades evolved from a full wedge in the direction of the hallow and extra-hallow. At first, almost all razors were a wedge in cross section. This is due to the fact that the composition of steel at the end of the XVIII and until the middle of the XIX century was significantly different from modern carbon steels. The blade, made of "archaic" material, held a thin edge worse, and the sharp triangle of the wedge-shaped section successfully avoided this problem. In addition, the standards and accuracy of metalwork in the specified period did not allow the production of razors with a deep sample on the flow. In the
end, the blades with a sample of the hallow have substantially pressed the wedges and occupied the leading position in the market; Because the hallway is much more durable. If, in an inept sharpening, the CE is "filled up", in the case of a wedge it is necessary to restore the tool by completely changing the geometry, grasping the web evenly throughout the plane, down to the thinning of the shoe. Meanwhile, similar defects even on semihollow are eliminated much easier, without significant damage to the body of the razor as a whole ... In general, speaking of the razor as a finished product in a complete assembly, it is impossible not to mention another nuance. For all the simplicity and obviousness of the criterion, which is discussed below, they are often neglected not only by beginners of manual production, but also by very advanced masters. The fact is that when the razor is fully opened, in a position where the handle becomes an extension of the tang line, ideally nothing should stick out and stick out beyond the contour line of the handle. Otherwise, the risk of damage to the blade when sharpening or the belt for straightening increases with awkward movement, when the blade is turned to change the direction. And too prominent decorative excesses on the shoe (for example, in the form of long spikes) do not add the convenience of these manipulations. We in our design always try to take into account this criterion of comfortable maintenance of the product. Aesthetics can not be more important than ergonomics :).
Fragment of the project drawing "Art•RAZOR" demonstrating the open position of the razor.
On this essay on the form of razor blades could be completed, but there is one more property that sometimes causes concern among some users who adhere to the principles of perfectionism. I am referring to laser engraving with the help of which markings are obligatory for the razors "Art•RAZOR" from the point of view of our internal standard, as well as decor elements. I can assure readers that the relief of such engraving does not lead to deterioration of the properties of the product. First, laser engraving does not cause any damage to the thermal treatment of the blade: despite very high temperatures directly at the point of beam movement, the zone subjected to heating is localized in a tiny area and a small impact time, and the heat sink in a massive blade monolith excludes the risk of tempering, the More in the CE area. Secondly, after drawing the drawings with a laser, just before the assembly, the blade passes the final finish, and therefore the edges of the image contours do not injure the belt for straightening. I personally check each product and I can assure that none of our razors scratch the strap.
The razor of the model "EMPIRE" (design "William Wallace") produced by "Art•RAZOR". An example of a strong decorating of a cloth by a method of laser engraving. The decor is absolutely "safe" both during shaving and during maintenance.
Summarizing all of the above, I want to draw the readers' attention to the fact that the modern razor of manual production is, as a rule, a step forward in the sense of careful execution and design. Well, at least, such razors certainly do not have to give in to decent samples of past years, regardless of the way they are made. I'm sure that the razors "Art•RAZOR" please the users with their excellent properties and comfortable shaving, which I wish all the adherents of traditional shaving.
I have an Ukulele Razor 9/8, it's my preferred among other quality razors, accurate ergonomy and perfect edge, it gives a smooth and affortless shave very delicate with the skin.
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